Get ready to add a cozy and stylish touch to your outfits with these crochet arm warmers, also known as fingerless gloves. This free and easy crochet pattern is perfect for keeping your hands warm while still allowing your fingers the freedom to move.
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Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced crocheter, you’ll enjoy creating these fashionable accessories. With just a few simple stitches and clear instructions, you’ll have a pair of trendy arm warmers in no time. Customize them with your favorite yarn colors and then add embellishments to make them uniquely yours.
These crochet arm warmers are not only practical but also make great gifts for family and friends. So grab your crochet hook and get ready to create cozy and stylish fingerless gloves that will keep you warm all season long.
Enjoy making this pattern, and then be sure to check out my other free crochet patterns before you go!
Skill Level
Advanced beginner. Projects may include involved stitch patterns, color work, and/or shaping.
Finished Size
Adult. One Size.
Materials
- G/4 mm crochet hook for the arm warmer
- E/3.5 mm crochet hook for the ribbing (both ends)
- Worsted weight (#4). I used Lion Brand’s Feels Like Butta in Ice
- Tapestry needle
- Locking stitch markers
- Scissors
Gauge
Gauge is very important for this pattern.
10 stitches and 5 rows= 2 inches
Abbreviations
- dc = double crochet
- sc = single crochet
- ch = chain
- chs = chains
- st = stitch
- sts = stitches
- rem = remaining
- dc2tog = double crochet 2 stitches together
- rnd = round
- rnds = rounds
- blo = back loop only
Pattern Notes
- the arm ribbing (bottom) is made separately and then sewn on
- the ribbing is worked flat and then joined in the round
- ribbing is worked in the back loops ONLY
- arm warmers are worked in the round
- the ch 2 at the beginning of each round of the arm warmer does not count as your first dc
- At the end of each round, you’ll join your yarn with a slip stitch (sl st) to the first stitch made in that round.
Crochet Stitches
Double Crochet (dc)
- Firstly, yarn over & insert hook in next stitch.
- Secondly, yarn over and pull up a loop. You will have 3 loops on your hook.
- Then, yarn over and pull through 2 loops. You will have 2 loops on your hook.
- Lastly, yarn over and pull through remaining 2 loops on your hook.
Double Crochet Decrease (dc2tog)
- Firstly, yarn over and insert hook in next stitch.
- Secondly, yarn over and pull up a loop. You will have 3 loops on your hook.
- Thirdly, yarn over and pull through 2 loops. You will have 2 loops on your hook.
- Next, yarn over and then insert hook in next stitch.
- Then, yarn over and pull up a loop. You will have 4 loops on your hook.
- Then, yarn over and pull through 2 loops. You will have 3 loops on your hook.
- Lastly, yarn over and pull through remaining 3 loops on your hook.
Single Crochet (sc)
- Firstly, insert hook in next stitch.
- Then, yarn over and pull up a loop. You will have 2 loops on your hook.
- Lastly, yarn over and pull through both loops.
Crochet Arm Warmers Pattern
Top Ribbing
Row 1: Ch 6, sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and then in each of the rem chs, turn (6 stitches)
For rows rows 2-32 you will be working in the back loops only (blo).
Row 2: ch 1, sc in each st in blo, turn (6 stitches)
Rows 3- 32: repeat row 2 (6 stitches)
After row 32, my ribbing was approximately 6.5 inches long. Wrap the ribbing around your hand to make sure it fits. You may need to work more or less than 32 rows depending on your own hand circumference. Do not fasten off.
Join your work in the round and then switch to your G/4 mm crochet hook.
You are now going to work in the round.
Arm Warmers
Rnd 1: Ch 2, make 1 dc in the side of each row of the ribbing, join (32 stitches)
Rnd 2: Ch 2, dc in each st, join (32 stitches)
Rnd 3: Ch 2, dc in each st, join (32 stitches)
Rnd 4: Ch 2, dc in each st, join (32 stitches)
Rnd 5: Ch 2, dc in 28 sts (if you have a different amount of stitches from me, dc until you have 4 sts rem), ch 10, skip over the last 4 sts, join (28 stitches + 10 chains)
Rnd 6: Ch 2, dc in each st and in each ch, join (38 stitches)
Rnd 7: Ch 2, dc 28 (if you have a different amount of stitches from me, dc until you have 10 sts rem), dc2tog, dc in 2 sts, dc2tog, dc in 2 sts, dc2tog, join (35 stitches)
Rnd 8: Ch 2, dc 28 (if you have a different amount of stitches from me, dc until you have 7 sts rem), dc in 1 st, dc2tog, dc in 1 st, dc2tog, dc in 1 st, join (33 stitches)
Rnd 9: Ch 2, dc in each st, join (33 stitches)
Rnds 10-29: repeat round 9 (33 stitches)
Fasten off.
Bottom Ribbing
The bottom ribbing is worked separately and then sewn onto the arm warmer.
Row 1: Ch 6, sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and then in each of the rem chs, turn (6 stitches)
For rows rows 2-33 you will be working in the back loops only (blo).
Row 2: ch 1, sc in each st in blo, turn (6 stitches)
Rows 3- 33: repeat row 2 (6 stitches)
Make sure that the numbers of rows equals the number of stitches that you have at the end of round 29. For example, at the end of round 29, I had 33 stitches. So, my bottom ribbing is 33 rows.
Assembly
Use your tapestry needle to sew the bottom ribbing to the arm warmer. Make sure each stitch of the arm warmer matches up with a row from the ribbing.
I had 33 dc stitches (arm warmer) and 33 rows (ribbing) and ended up with 33 sewing stitches.
Sew up the seams for the top ribbing and then the bottom ribbing.
